Transgender style: How an all-accepting attitude in the fashion world is leading the way

It is fashion’s duty, to paraphrase Nina Simone, to reflect the times in which we live. There’s no doubt that’s true.

But sometimes, rather than simply hold up a mirror to society, the fashion industry is actually responsible for reshaping that reality. One way it does this is by breaking taboos and bringing marginalised ideas into the mainstream. Take, for example, the current visibility of transgender people, and discussion of transgender issues that is occupying general discourse. Yes, that’s a development reflected in the fashion world with unprecedented casting of transgender models. But that we’ve even got to this point is thanks in part to the pioneering work of visionary creatives.

Aesthetically, the blurring of the traditional lines between genders, and explorations of androgyny, are recurring themes in fashion and they’re rife on the catwalks once again. Gucci is currently putting a gender-neutral ethos, and to some extent cross-dressing, in the spotlight. New designer Alessandro Michele  is dressing male models in womenswear, and vice versa. Since their unspoken strategy is that sex sells, letting him sell this ideal of sex is as revolutionary as his designs.

Meanwhile, the Agender project at Selfridges explored the gender gap earlier this year, selling clothing without labelling it as men’s or women’s in response to customers shopping across the gender divide. “We wanted it to be provocative – challenging ourselves, as well as engaging with conversations around the gender tipping-point,” says Linda Hewson, Selfridges creative director. It seems that, right now, and more than ever before, people are delving deeper into unisex aesthetics.

Transgender supermodel Lea T in pictures

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Lea T, a transgender model and muse to Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, has been much in demand since the designer gave her her big break in 2010, when he cast her in his campaign in order to help fund her gender-affirming surgery. She then went on to lock lips with Kate Moss on the cover of Love magazine in spring 2011. So far, so ground-breaking.

But T’s most recent role has been arguably the most important . This year – as the face, and locks, of Redken hair colour – she became the first transgender model to front a campaign for a global beauty brand. Beauty campaigns are coveted by models because they are lucrative; and they’re lucrative because someone who spends their time surrounded by spread sheets thinks that they model they choose will help add another digit to the bottom line.

So, while it’s great to see transgender models on the catwalks or in style magazines, this could be dismissed as headline-grabbing. But when someone puts their money where their mouth is, and decides that this idea of beauty is the one they want to sell to women around the world, it validates their community in a very high profile way.

And with T’s beauty brand debut being followed closely by that of fellow transgender model Andreja Pejic, whose campaign for Make Up For Ever launched last month, we have further proof of the appetite for diverse depictions of beauty.

Before her transition earlier this year, the Serbian-born, Australian-raised model (then called Andrej) appeared on the catwalks of both men’s and women’s designers thanks to an androgynous aesthetic. Now the casting of transgender models is becoming almost routine. In this year’s spring/summer shows, models such as Juliana Huxtable and Hari Nef (a vocal advocate for trans visibility and rights) appeared in New York and Pejic made her post-transition debut in London. But just as important is the trickle-down effect, which brings catwalk ideas to brands that are more accessible.

Swedish label & Other Stories is building a reputation for exploring diversity in its fashion campaigns, and the latest is something of a landmark – created as it was by a team of transgender models and creatives. “The fashion world is embracing transgender models and we think that’s great. But we couldn’t help but ask ourselves how the traditional fashion gaze can change if we keep the same normative crew behind the camera,” explains Sara Hildén Bengtson, creative director of the brand.

It’s an important step in the right direction, believes Nef, who stars in the campaign alongside Valentijn de Hingh. “I was thrilled that I got to shoot next to Valentijn because we are such different body types,” she says.

“I think it’s important that people see there is not only one way to look trans, or one way for trans people to be beautiful. While an all-trans team on a campaign is what we need now, I would love to see a more casual and sustained employment of transgender fashion artists – models, photographers, stylists, make-up artists. There should be a mix.”

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Caitlyn Jenner has been embraced by the fashion world (Getty)
The campaign was shot in the brand’s Stockholm atelier by Amos Mac, the co-founder of trans male quarterly magazine Original Plumbing, who had wanted to photograph Nef for some time. “I can’t tell if this beautiful campaign is a step towards diversity in the industry because it is so pointedly trans, and I don’t know if that means it will inspire the higher-ups in the fashion industry to diversify who we see on magazine covers or who gets the jobs. What matters to me is, for even one young trans person to see this campaign, filled with the work of visible trans adults, and realise that their experience matters.”

Nef herself believes that, while we may currently be celebrating a chosen few, that’s too few altogether. However, she is keen to point out that the lives of most trans people are a world away from the glamorous existence of an in-demand model: “Increased trans visibility has coincided with an increase in violence against trans folk – especially trans women, and trans women of colour. Representations of trans people in the media can work to demystify and de-stigmatise the trans experience, but they can also work in the opposite direction.

“Trans issues will only stay in the limelight for so long, but the struggle for trans rights will outlast it by decades. So brands and artists that want to engage with the trans experience need to be thinking about why they are attracted to this issue in the first place. If it’s just about being trendy, then the work will just feel trendy.”

Or in the words of Caitlyn Jenner, who has been embraced by the fashion world since making her debut: “I’m not doing this to be interesting... I’m doing this to live.”

Sai One Raises A Fashion Flag in Downtown Buffalo

I first met retailer-designer Angel Rodriguez ten years ago when he opened his style boutique – Sai One – on Elmwood Avenue. Angel had come to Buffalo, from NYC, with his business partner Norman, to test out the Buffalo market. While Norman remained based in NYC, Angel began to hone his skills in the apparel industry in Buffalo, starting off with quirky, offbeat handbags and furniture. Over the years, he has developed his tastes and clothing design aesthetics into a refined, yet fashion forward look of his own, that he continues to roll out to this day.

This morning I finally caught up with Angel, after trying to track him down for days. Angel just got back from NYC on a fabric buying trip, where he was scoping out clothing designs that will be featured in his new Market Arcade boutique. Angel recently closed his store on Elmwood Avenue, after ten years on the street, in order to pursue business in Downtown Buffalo. When I saw that he had closed his shop, I immediately felt that this city lost a real talent and personality. Fortunately, the winds of change blew Angel into a completely new part of town, where he is determined to make his mark.

“Elmwood is sandals and frappé,” Angel thought aloud. “And a lot of browsers. I feel that the people who are shopping at the Market Arcade are looking to buy. We might not have the foot traffic yet, but we have people who want to buy. There are a lot of professionals down here who see my storefront and say, ‘I want that dress in the window’. I first heard about the Market Arcade two years ago, and with the help of Novi (Sasmita) I finally made my way here. I opened just a few days ago, but I’m already selling. My vision has always been to have a little shop that one might see in SoHo… I believe that I have finally got that here in the Market Arcade.”

Angel is a huge asset to Buffalo fashion scene. The man has gone from flying by the seat of his pants, to a fashion pro with attitude and edgy design sense, and the skills to back it up. “I was homeless before my business partner gave me a shot at this business,” Angel confided in me. “He has pushed me all along. A couple of years ago he told me that he would buy the fabric, if I began to make dresses. Now I’m making my own designs, with the fabric that I choose. My designer name is OMI, which meanswater in Yoruba (Nigeria). I have been initiated as High Priest there – water and fire… I stuck with the water part of the designation. I am a very spiritual person, and my spirituality transcends the clothing.”

As I talked to Angel, my wife tried on one of his new dresses, which she ended up buying. “My aesthetic is a powerful womanwho takes charge of her life, with a lot of edge… she can rock that dress with leggings on a yacht, or with bare feet on the beach, depending on the clutch and the jewelry of course.”

“My mom passed away three years ago,” reflected Angel. “Every time that I dreamed of her, my collection came to me. After years in the business, I finally started designing with a lot of love five years ago. I do it for the love of it, which is why the designs sell.”

Angel’s dresses are very reasonably priced, considering that they are all 100% unique – $150-$175. He even makes custom dresses for $175 and up.

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Along with rockin’ dresses, Angel sells some kick ass sunglasses at rock bottom prices. He also sells jewelry and a number of other clothing lines (other than his own designs) for guys and gals. “Sai One [pronounced ‘say one’] is slang Jamaican for ‘unique looks’,” said Angel. “My partner’s grandmother used to say, ‘you look sai one…’ – I believe that everyone should look unique. That’s why I carry so many one-of-a-kind items.”

Along with unique threads (hip men’s shirts) and accessories (pocket books, bow ties, etc.), Angel also prides himself on attention to detail. In his world, service is key. Angel doesn’t tell you what you want to hear… rather he will tell you what he honestly thinks. That’s because he wants everyone to walk out of his store as a billboard for his brand. Now that’s simply refreshing. Downtown Buffalo could really use a guy like this, to help lead the way to a fashionable and promising future.

New model army: Iranian fashion revolution moves above ground

In northern Tehran’s Oxygen Royal health and fitness centre, a group of 20 young men have gathered, each wearing identical black T-shirts inscribed with a big white DFW, the abbreviation for Darab fashion week.

The centre is located in the affluent and historical district of Gheytarieh in the foothills of the Alborz mountains, which tower over Iran’s capital. With its VIP members and advanced exercise machinery, you may as well be in Beverly Hills. Instead, the centre is the venue for Iran’s male models to practise strutting the catwalk under the aegis of a professional trainer, who will also prepare them for the castings that will follow.

After a day of hard work, the results are promising. All the men have been offered contracts for Darab’s forthcoming event in September, planned to take place at the Esteghlal hotel.

After more than three decades of resistance and struggling underground, fashion is finally gaining a foothold in the Islamic Republic. As fashion weeks mushroom across Iran, the need for more models has significantly increased.

Most models at Oxygen Royal are hired by Behpooshi, a modelling agency that last year became one of the first to obtain official permission to operate. The agency has 50 male and 30 female models, linking them with event managers such as Darab.

“If I say that fashion in Iran has gone through a revolution in the past year, I haven’t exaggerated,” Sharif Razavi, Behpooshi’s director, told the Guardian. “In around 30 years since the revolution, we saw around 10 to 15 catwalks in the country,” he said, “but in the last year alone, we’ve seen more than a hundred.”

Before this if I were to mention to the authorities that I wanted to found a modelling agency nobody would listen to me
Sharif Razavi, modelling agent
Behpooshi began seven years ago but like many others involved in the fashion industry in Iran, the agency operated underground.Then two and half years ago, Razavi wrote to the office of the Iranian supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, and asked for a religious edict to find if Islam forbade fashion and modelling. To his delight, it didn’t.

He pursued the matter with the authorities at the ministry of culture and Islamic guidance. And this effort opened doors. “Before this if I were to mention to the authorities that I wanted to found a modelling agency nobody would listen to me but things changed,” Razavi said.



 A model wearing an Iranian-style manteaux and scarf. Photograph: Photographer: Afra Pourdad/Afra's Corner
Rayan Baghdadi, with many followers on Instagram, was among the 20 men practising at Oxygen Royal. “Modelling is now my job and I’m taking it very seriously,” said the 23-year-old. “When you are a model, you can’t do so much things other people do, like drinking or eating fast food, you are always conscious about what you do and what you eat.”

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Baghdadi, who recently performed at Tehran fashion week held at the sumptuous Sam Centre complex on the city’s most expensive street, Fereshteh, said significant improvements have been made in the past couple of years. “The authorities now issue licences to each model and those who want to participate in public events and catwalks, should apply for a licence and its ID card. The underground fashion is fading.” He has even had international experience, doing catwalks in Dubai to promote the works of designer Rahil Hesan, who is half-Iranian.

Mahan Farokhmehr, Darab’s chief executive, echoed Baghdadi. “In the past two years, the atmosphere has changed positively,” he said. “The ministry has set up a body called the working group for bringing order to fashion and clothing which regulates fashion in Iran and grants permission for holding events. What took place underground a few years ago, is now happening in public.”

Despite this, red lines persist. Darab fashion week, Farokhmehr said, will feature the works of young Iranian designers, including Mohsen Asgari and Neda Sadeghi, over two days. But while women can go and watch the men’s catwalk shows, men are not allowed to attend the women’s shows. Although the event is held in public, attendance is by invitation-only. “We wouldn’t have enough space if we were to open it to the public,” Farokhmehr said, adding that 2,700 people are expected to participate.

Not all Iranian models, however, have applied for a licence. Dana Mashalahpoor, 28, has been particularly successful but his route to fashion has been entirely different to that of Baghdadi. Although he has worked with big companies, including foreign brands, he has never been invited to walk a catwalk at home.

“Fashion is becoming more serious in Iran and that’s a good thing,” he said. “You’ll see plenty of people interested in fashion today in the country compared to a few years ago. There’s a wave, a strong wave but we’ll have to be careful and do it right.”

There has been progress but big challenges remain. Some people still have negative views about fashion in Iran
Dana Mashalahpoor, model
Mashalahpoor is now the face of Dorsa, which sells popular leather products. He has been featured on large billboards in Tehran streets at least eight times, has appeared for for Swiss brand Davidoff in Dubai and has modelled for the Italian menswear Pal Zileri in Iran.

“There has been progress but big challenges remain,” he said. “Some people still have negative views about fashion in Iran. But Iran has a huge potential in fashion, and models are very ambitious and want to work across the globe.”





A model wearing an Iranian-style manteaux and scarf. Photograph: Photographer: Afra Pourdad/Afra's Corner
The fashion boom has give hope to independent designers such as Salar Bil and Farnaz Abdoli. Abdoli’s firm Pooshema specialises in women’s clothing such as manteaux, which many Iranian women wear in public instead of the traditional chador, which covers them from head to toe. Many Iranian women push the boundaries and wear manteaux that are short, colourful and modern.

Pooshema has been recently approached by Vancouver fashion week. Long before the authorities allowed fashion operations, Pooshema (previously known as Poosh) became popular online for its work. “At those times, the authorities were very sensitive, and there were only a few people involved in holding fashion weeks,” Abdoli said. “Fortunately things changed for better. Now you can’t count the number of people involved in fashion in Iran, with many companies holding training for modelling and designing and even offering certificates.”

Abdoli said she has been overwhelmed by the number of emails she has received from abroad about her work. “When people see our work, they are shocked,” she said. “They expect women in Iran to wear veils and niqabs but then they see our models and designs and they can’t believe what they see.”

Fashion Footwear Show In NYC Previews Summer 2016’s Hottest Trends

Summer may be the season for flip flops, but for some women, shoes are always a coveted fashion item.
As CBS2’s Diane Macedo reported, the Fashion Footwear Show offers a preview of some of the styles you may be walking around in this time next year; from sleek spring slippers, to chunky summer sandals, and plenty of fancy footwear for men too.
“Right now you’re seeing spring/summer 2016. We have about 600 brands from a higher end to more bridge, contemporary, dress, comfort,” said Phyllis Rein, executive vice president with Fashion Footwear Association of New York.
Expect to see colorful slides and bright platforms. Popular trends for next year are taking their cues from familiar styles, Macedo reported.

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“Bohemian chic, very fringe inspired, traditional Spanish boots,” said Meaghan Lawson, with Musse & Cloud.
There will also be plenty of leather and wooden platforms to choose from, and the easy comfort of flat fringed boots.
“The women are really driving the western in the city today,” said Quin D’Imperio, with Corral Boots.
Cowboy boots are a timeless trend, but new styles come with Swavorski crystals, and even a hand-stitched wedding boot.
New to the show this year are some distinctive, sculpted, and architectural styles, Macedo reported.
“The only way to make a shape like this is through 3-D printing,” explained Julian Hakes.
The unique design literally hugs the food and promises comfort in high style, Macedo reported.
And in classic style, expect to see the timeless design of the Mary Jane flat hitting the streets next year, along with bright, colorful loafers.
“Even though they’re in suede, they feel very light and easy for summer, and very soft and forgiving,” said Jill Rubinstein, with Jon Josef Shoes.
So for spring 2016, expect color and neutrals, flats and stilettos — something for every taste and style.

Luxury fashion retailer Neiman Marcus files for IPO

Luxury fashion retailer Neiman Marcus Group Inc filed with U.S. regulators on Tuesday for an initial public offering of common stock.

The retailer, backed by Canadian Pension Plan Investment Board and Ares Management LP among others, intends to list its common stock under the symbol "NMG", according to a filing with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission.

Neiman Marcus, whose revenue was $4.8 billion for fiscal year 2014, did not name the underwriters for the offering.

The company set a nominal fundraising target of $100 million.

The amount of money a company says it plans to raise in its first IPO filings is used to calculate registration fees. The final size of the IPO could be different.

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Darwin Cup: Favourite Lightinthenite wins the feature race

The hot favourite for the Darwin Cup Lightinthenite has won the Northern Territory's premier horse race by eight lengths.

The horse, owned by a syndicate including the Chief Minister Adam Giles and a number of Darwin developers and publicans, was never troubled over the 2,000-metre race.

Second was Royal Request followed by last year's winner Pretty Blonde.

Lightinthenite took the lead on the final bend and had bounded clear with 250 metres to go.

Sydney jockey Hugh Bowman said the win was a tribute to trainer Gary Clarke.

He said it was very special also today to win the inaugural Simone Montgomery medal in race six.

The horses connections, including Darwin developer John "Foxy" Robinson and Chief Minister Adam Giles said it was a great feeling to win for their syndicate of Darwin friends.

Mr Giles declared his stake in the horse on the parliamentary pecuniary interests register a few weeks before it won the second race of the Darwin carnival, the Chief Minister's Cup.

Earlier on Monday he said he was not putting his money on the horse to win today's $200,000 race.

But the Chief Minister came down to the winning post to celebrate the win with his syndicate of Darwin co-owners.

"It was fantastic. You've got to be in sport with good people, supporting a good event, and that's what it was today," Mr Giles said.

PHOTO: Darwin Racing chairman Brett Dixon and Chief Minister Adam Giles with the Darwin Cup before the race.(ABC News: Jane Bardon)

Earlier, the Fannie Bay Racetrack was a sea of colour, as thousands turn out in ideal conditions for the 2015 Darwin Cup.

Up to 20,000 people were expected to attend the race, which is the premier event in the cup carnival and a major social occasion in Darwin.

"Obviously a lot goes into the preparations for the cup in finding that right dress and then trying to match obviously a headpiece and your shoes," racegoer Abbey Holmes said.

She and her friends went to the race mostly for the atmosphere on the sunny day that was expected to reach 32 degrees Celsius.

"We are more here for the fun, I don't know much about the horses themselves," Ms Holmes said.

The fashions on the field awards all went to women from out of town.

Jordan Beard from Cairns won the under 25 category, her sister Jalaine Beard also from Cairns won the over 25 and Lisa March from the Gold Coast won the over 40 section.

PHOTO: Fashions on the field winners Jordan Beard and Jalaine Beard from Cairns and Lisa March from the Gold Coast.(ABC News: Jane Bardon)

Chad Miller was on his buck's night, and had travelled to Darwin from Brisbane with eight friends.

They came to the cup dressed as police officers.

"We've heard about the Darwin Cup, and we thought it would be a good experience and get the boys up here for a bit of a craic," Mr Miller said.

PHOTO: A buck's group from Brisbane came to the Darwin Cup dressed as policemen. (ABC: Jane Bardon)

Bookmaker Rob Waterhouse said he was expecting a good betting day, even though many in the crowd did not take the event seriously.

"It's seen more as a big day out," he said.

"They most certainly dress very well for it and they have a very good time."

Chief Minister Adam Giles has a stake in the horse Lightinthenite, which is one of the favourites to win the race.

But Mr Giles said he was not betting on his own horse but no matter who won the race, the NT's tourism industry would be the big winner.

"Today is about Territorians about the tourism industry," Mr Giles said.

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 "I think there are some very good horses. Anyone can win it."

Quinton de’Alexander Combines Fashion and Philanthropy

Quinton de’ Alexander has been described by Chicago Now as a “designer extraordinaire” who has taken the Chicago fashion scene to a new level.  And although his designs are  without question exquisite, dramatic, exotic at times and certainly unforgettable and always elegant and high fashion his best work is what he does  to make a difference in the community.
De’ Alexander combined fashion and philanthropy in inventive ways. He regularly offered free seats at his exclusive fashion shows to those who could not otherwise afford to attend. It was his was of introducing  some glamour and fun into the lives of young single mothers.  He  has arranged “spa days” with makeovers and modeling lessons, presenting a designer prom dress to the teen mom with the best grades. He created similar programs for the mature , building self-esteem in those whom society often ignores by staging fashion shows where seniors model designer originals.
Another side of de’ Alexander’s community work was inspired by his own solitary struggle to learn the skills he needed to succeed in the field of fashion design. Through an organization he’s founded called Creativity United, Inc., de’ Alexander helps aspiring artists to gain a foothold in all facets of the design industry. Creativity United also hosted the Midwest Fashion and Beauty Designer Awards, an annual event recognizing the achievements of both established and beginning designers.
And if that isn’t enough, his pride and joy is his annual event ‘Creativity United’ Project, ‘We Live and Remember in Color’ hosted this year  Saturday, August 1, 2015  at The DuSable Museum.
The annual even  celebrates some extraordinary people. Survivors that have over come some challenging obstacles who live to  share their testimonies to encourage and inspire  other’s to keep their faith and get through what they must go through to heal.
Project “We Live And Remember In Color” ground breaking mission is to unify the awareness colors of health and humanity in one ribbon. Our objective is to stress the importance of knowing your color. Knowing your color is the key to mind and body support, disease prevention and humanitarian assistance. Because people give most to what matters to them, Project “We Live And Remember In Color” intends to showcase events in collaboration with other organizations in fundraising efforts toward the many “Colors” that affect us all. (colors refer to the colors of the ribbons attributed to the disease with which it is associate i.e.., pink is breast cancer)

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Quinton de’Alexander  is quite extraordinary himself.  I spoke with him during production and under the gun only to recognize his serene calm and composure as he continued to work and pull together  the final touches that will bring the event attendees to their feet.  It really will be an amazing red carpet event which dazzle everyone. The attire is black tie.
He showed me some event photos from years past and I was enthralled at the stage settings and asked, “Who’s your set designer?” only to hear him reply, “Me.”
This he also does, just one more task, a major task I might add  given all else that he does to assure that the participants, attendees and honoree’s all have a pleasant evening to remember.
But perhaps the most alarming factor in all this is that he lost his mother with whom he was very close  earlier this year around Mother’s Day. He expressed,” At one point I thought to put the event on hiatus and then realized my mother wouldn’t want that. She’d prefer that I do my work, to serve and contribute to those in need, so here I am, here we are ready to celebrate humanity.”
de’Alexander  says, “We at ‘Project ‘We Live and Remember in Color’ is on your side. Celebrating individuals and assisting you with realizing that ‘life is a song worth singing’!!!! Celebrate life!!! For more information of our ‘we dream in color’ humanitarian celebration, please visit:www.weliveandremember.com. ‘Media center/video’s’ to view highlights of past celebrations.