How Woman Use Fashion to Assert Their Power

Of all the candidates running in next Tuesday’s American midterm elections, only one, it seems to me, really has Halloween potential — which is to say, only one has succeeded in identifying herself closely enough with a specific sartorial semiology that a Pavlovian association is created in a viewer’s mind. See the garment, think the person.

I am speaking, of course, of Wendy Davis, the Texas state senator and beleaguered candidate for governor, as well as famed Mizuno sneaker wearer. A blond wig, a bright suit and those sneakers doth a costume create. Who needs masks when you have fashion?



Clothes have the power to define a person and a position, and though they are often seen as handicapping women in positions of authority, acting as a distraction from their achievements and substance, they can also be a strategic communication tool. One that is, ironically, more accessible to women than to men, who are stuck in a never-ending generic suit loop, forced to rely on the distinguishing characteristics of hair and tie color.

If in doubt, simply consider an exhibition that opened Wednesday in London at the Design Museum titled “Women Fashion Power.” It has little to do with fashion as trend-driven designer vision, makes no aesthetic judgments and shies away from “power dressing” in the 1980s-Joan Collins-“Working Girl”-big-shouldered sense of the word. Rather, it focuses on image and authority in the public eye.

“It felt like it was the right time to look at the rise of women in contemporary power roles, and how they view and use fashion to facilitate their place in the world,” said Donna Loveday, a co-curator, describing the show as one of the most ambitious the museum has done.

She and her fellow curator, the fashion historian and journalist Colin McDowell, began work on the exhibition 10 months ago. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the first woman to win the Pritzker Prize, it is laid out over almost 6,500 square feet in three parts: There is an analytic “corridor of power” that identifies 16 of the most influential dressers in history, starting with Hatshepsut, the Egyptian queen who used elements of male dress to establish authority after her husband’s death, and culminating with Hillary Rodham Clinton; a 150-year timeline highlighting moments of public sartorial change (the “freedom from constraints” of the turn of the 20th century, the suffragist movement of the 1920s); and, most significant, a gallery of current power players who contributed a Q. and A. and favorite garments that reflect their words.

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Hillary Rodham Clinton and Christine Lagarde, of the International Monetary Fund.On The Runway: Hillary Rodham Clinton and the Power of StyleJUNE 10, 2014
And since, as Ms. Loveday pointed out, “I don’t think there has really been an exhibit in a museum on the subject before,” it makes me wonder if this signifies a turning point in our own relationship with fashion.

Just consider the fact that the show includes 25 high-profile women happy to go public with their thoughts on clothing. This includes the usual suspects: fashion professionals like Natalie Massenet, the executive chairwoman of Net-a-Porter; the designer Vivienne Westwood; and the model Naomi Campbell. But it also includes Wei Sun Christianson, a co-chief executive of Morgan Stanley Asia Pacific; Anne Hidalgo, the mayor of Paris (who also opened the exhibition); Alfiya Kuanysheva, the chief executive of the Kazakhstan finance group BATT; and Kirsty Wark, the British broadcaster.



That, it seems to me, is an enormous and meaningful change in the conversation about achievement and gender. The idea that women whose power is undeniable and exists in traditionally male sectors like banking and politics may stand up and say, for the record and posterity, that clothes matter and require (and deserve) thought is, in my experience, unprecedented.

Even just three years ago, Michelle Obama, featured in the corridor of power, was denying giving any real consideration to clothing, announcing on “Good Morning America”: “Look, women, wear what you love. That’s all I can say. That’s my motto.”

(It just so happened that she loved wearing dresses from small American brands made by designers with notably diverse backgrounds, hence raising their profile on the international stage — but, hey, guess that was a coincidence.)

Fashion, like money — if not more than money — has been the off-limits topic, the subject whispered about and obsessed over but rarely acknowledged in any nonpejorative way. It’s the invisible elephant in the room; like disinformation, it’s the tool all people use — and have used, as the exhibition makes clear, since Joan of Arc threw on some male armor — but refuse to admit they use.

“For a very long period, as women began entering the workplace and taking up roles traditionally occupied by men, the subject of dress was really put to one side and treated as a frivolous distraction,” Ms. Loveday said.

Indeed, in a Daily Beast article last year about Ms. Davis and her sneakers, the liberal pundit Sally Kohn wrote that noting what women wear “undercuts the leadership of women and quashes their voice.” It seems to me, however, and this exhibition shows, that the situation is the opposite: What women wear is an embodiment of their voice, and identifying it helps identify their agenda (as it does with men, for that matter).

Granted, there were still women, and some very big names, that chose not to take part in the Q. and A. section of the Design Museum show. Ms. Loveday had Angela Merkel, Queen Elizabeth II and Mrs. Clinton on her wish list, and all begged off from participating in the interactive, though they are mentioned in the show. But, Ms. Loveday said, the reason she was given for their demurrals was not “I don’t want to be seen talking about that subject,” but rather “time.”

Before you say, “Well, isn’t that the same thing and weren’t they just being polite?,” consider the fact that a few years ago, when I was trying to convene a panel of power women to do some image analysis for a different newspaper, the answer I heard over and over again from chief executives I approached was a straightforward: “Thanks for thinking of me, but I can’t be involved in any overt discussion of fashion. It would undermine my hard-won seriousness.” (I’m paraphrasing, but not that much.)

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Go to previous slideGo to next slide The back of a ribbon corset from 1904. Credit 1 of 4 Go to previous slide Go to next slide
I’m not saying the time excuse should be taken at face value or is anything but an excuse (though it could be true), but the sheer fact that the women involved bothered to make it, as opposed to taking umbrage at the very idea they might think about clothing, is, in my book, a step forward.

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Besides, even without the active participation of such pivotal figures, it is meaningful to think that for six months visitors to the Design Museum will be able to read the property developer Morwenna Wilson’s words — “Jackets are very important to me because I am petite and a woman, yet one with responsibility and authority working in a male dominated industry, often with a team of people older than me” — and Ms. Christianson of Morgan Stanley attesting that “I decided that while I was working in a man’s world, I was not going to suppress my femininity in an attempt to blend in.”



“It’s an incredibly positive message,” said Ms. Loveday, referring to not just Ms. Christianson’s words, but also her willingness to contribute. I would have to agree.

Even more pointedly, the fact that this is now a public subject of conversation, blessed by a major institution, suggests that perhaps during the coming British elections, which will take place in May but with campaigning beginning in January, image analysis may be discussed in formerly unheard-of ways — and vis-à-vis candidates of any sex. And given that after “Women Fashion Power” closes in London, it may travel to the United States, Asia and Europe, it could potentially play a part in the presidential election here, if Mrs. Clinton is a candidate.

And that in turn means that it is possible that this political cycle, instead of the usual disingenuous disavowals and fights about whether or not clothes are a legitimate part of spin and manipulation and the fight for higher office, we may actually be able to have a meaningful conversation about how exactly our candidates are attempting to communicate through cloth, and what exactly the subtext is.

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Men’s fashion jury: ‘Even by Pharrell’s standards, this outfit is a bit crazy’

Lenny Kravitz

Robert Peston, BBC economics editor There is nothing about this I like. I’ve always hated leather trousers: they’re worn by a certain kind of man I never want to be. Scots can get away with tartan; I don’t think anyone else can. Overall, it’s a 1/10.

Amir Khan, boxer This is a cool modern take on a rock-star look. I love anyone who can rock a leather pant.

Simon Chilvers, style director, matchesfashion.com This look is from the current Hedi Slimane collection and he nails that off-duty rock-star look with aplomb. At Slimane’s last show, Lenny wore a tuxedo jacket with a gold low-cut vest – all the better to show off what is surely the best male décolletage in music.

Related: Cheap Air Max 2015 George Osborne

RP He wears reasonably well-cut suits, but he’s a bit more sombre than he needs to be. There’s a slightly undertakerish look about him. You can’t see it here, but he’s been going in for pale-and-interesting pancake makeup. He could afford to go for a bit more colour. But I like the new hair; it makes him look a bit less formal. Has he lost weight? He’s in good shape.


AK I always thought politicians wore made-to-measure suits. This looks off the peg. Best to invest if you want people to have faith in you.

SC Clearly Osborne has learned from the recent Nick Clegg chino debacle. And he’s had his hair snipped, which makes him look younger. Frankly, I’d rather see him in this boring suit than in his running kit.

André 3000

RP He’s been spending too much time in those make-your-own pottery cafes. Those trousers look as though they’ve been splattered by overenthusiastic kids. Or perhaps it’s the Jackson Pollock look. I’ve been wearing a lot of double denim recently, so I approve of that. I’m wondering whether I should try the orange beanie and white round spectacles on the 10 O’Clock News.

AK A bit “Willy Wonka does double denim” – great if you want to remain anonymous in Hollywood.

SC Fresh from playing Jimi Hendrix, André is clearly feeling some sartorial kinship, which might explain the jazzy beanie and specs combo. But this look is all about the denim. Double and even triple denim is set for a comeback. The jean jacket is the place to start – Burberry’s velvet-collared version looks like it will be a hit next season. Wearing it with jeans is totally optional.


Do Pharrell Williams, Jamie Dornan and Mark Ronson look sharp? Composite: Mike Marsland/WireImage; Beretta/Rex; Jonathan Hordle/Rex
Mark Ronson

RP This is the sort of thing your auntie wore to a stylish barmitzvah in the 1970s. I used to work in Debenhams in the university holidays. Ladies of a certain age would come in and I would sell them the matching handbag, matching shoes, matching jacket. I think somebody at Debenhams has done a job on him.

AK Mark Ronson can’t go wrong. This is a classic look but with a modern spin – the ultimate slick gentleman.

SC Mark has never shied away from wearing a suit with eye-bleed potential, and for that you must salute him. He’s worn leopard before, though this matching shoe/blazer takes things to a new level. And I’m a fan of that neat hairdo – just the right side of 1970s suave.

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RP Help! There’s been a burglary at Barbara Windsor’s. This is a difficult look to pull off, but if anybody can do it, he can. I love the beads. I could wear those. But I hate the shoes. They’re among the most revolting things I’ve seen. The branding on the toe – no, Pharrell, you shouldn’t be doing that. Bizarrely, he still looks like one of the coolest people on the planet.

AK I admire a guy who can pull off a pink coat, wear Chanel and still make it look masculine.

SC Even by Pharrell’s standards, this outfit is a bit crazy. The Chanel boots take the designer sneaker trend to its logical conclusion, while the bag is, as Coco herself would perhaps have observed, one accessory too many. The pink coat, however, is smashing. Bravo for the coat.

Jamie Dornan

RP I’m a bit of a sucker for a shiny electric-blue suit. I used to have a couple of these. I didn’t know they were back; I’m going to go out immediately and buy myself one. This is what George Osborne should be wearing. In the runup to an election, take a few risks. Who knows?

AK I’m jealous of Jamie – he has it easy. Not only has this guy been the face of Calvin Klein, he’s going to explode when his new film comes out [Fifty Shades Of Grey]. Clean, smart, fresh.

SC Anyone who goes for a bolt of blue on the red carpet has to be given props. Prince Harry recently wore a similar suit to one of those posho nightclubs – which is a good/bad thing, depending on who you hang with. Related: Fashion & Style

Fall Fashion Gets It White

THE WINTER WHITE theme has been bubbling up in the fashion world for some time now, especially among luxury brands. But the fall 2014 catwalks were awash with it—Bottega Veneta, Isabel Marant and Chloé did it particularly well—which guaranteed that the real shops will be, too. The high street is really very good this season and that’s terrific news for anyone who wants to do white.

But be warned, wherever you wear your white/ecru/cream/ivory outfit, it’s guaranteed to suck up dirt like a Dyson. This is why women with limo-lives carefully fold their ivory skirts or coats before they allow the door to be closed behind them. And why their white trousers are paired with vertiginous heels.

This sort of fashion issue usually involves a church, a ring and a scary commitment; the difference being that we didn’t need the dress, the veil or the shoes for a serious business meeting the following week. And if the wedding dress got trashed—so what? You were only wearing it once (fingers crossed).

Wearing white as part of one’s regular wardrobe during the winter months requires a different form of commitment, otherwise known as the washing machine or dry cleaner. Don’t expect anyone—the waiter who accidentally steps on the hem of the coat you have carelessly thrown on the back of your chair, the woman on the subway who grazes your trousers with her wet shopping bag, or your teenage son who steps on your pristine white brogues—to make any apologies. After all, you were the one who chose to wear the most impractical color on the planet.

But the upsides outweigh the downsides. When you get white right, nothing else can come close to making the same impact, or making you look polished, fashion-forward and, frankly, rich.

This season, you can wear white on white (because fashion says it’s OK), though my preference would be to mix the tones so that you are wearing one bright white piece with other pared-down neutrals in off-white, ecru, cream, ivory or gray. You can use the gradations to play down the bits you might be less comfortable about. I would never wear a fitted white pant beyond August, but a baggy, high-waisted one, paired with a gray sweater and a cream coat? Maybe.

THE COAT

Faux fur is all over the shop. While this look is fine for a party or over a pair of jeans, don’t spend too much because next year, it will be so “last year.” Zara hits the spot with its chic round-neck coat in ecru (above, £90; zara.com ).

‘Wearing white as part of one’s regular wardrobe during the winter months requires a different form of commitment, otherwise known as the washing machine or dry cleaner. ’
But if you really want to do white properly, the only choice is wool. For an affordable option, try Marks & Spencer ’s Speziale coat (£199; marksandspencer.com ). If you’re in the market for a true investment piece, put your money on Burberry. You’ll rarely make a better cost-per-wear buy than its single-breasted Chesterfield in white cashmere (£1,495; burberry.com ).

For a more casual look that takes advantage of fashion’s sporty edge, go for a parka. Whistles looks great right now; give its Harrison cropped parka a go with jeans, or over a pencil skirt for the office (£155; whistles.com ).

THE BAG
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THE TOP

The easiest way to pull off winter white is to pair a white sweater or sweatshirt with ivory trousers. Sweatshirts like Jigsaw’s silk version (£89; jigsaw-online.com ) are perfect for a casual yet pulled-together vibe. But if going the sweater route, don’t go for the full Nordic fisherman look at work, or you’ll find yourself overheating by 10 a.m. Try light wool and cotton, like H&M ’s cable-knit sweater in natural white (£35; hm.com ).

Weekends are when you can really go overboard with the cream sweater vibe, but you’ll have to part with some cash for something that doesn’t look cheap. For the most bang for your buck, go with Isabel Marant’s Sao alpaca and wool-blend sweater (£515; net-a-porter.com ).

THE SKIRT

Where skirts are concerned, a cream or white A-line like Cos’s raw-cut flared skirt (right, £69; cosstores.com ), worn with a boxy top and a pair of flat boots or brogues will work day-to-evening. Casual but stylish office wear means there’s no excuse not to be dressed well enough in the day to seamlessly segue into a drinks party. If you want a punch of authority, pair a white pencil skirt like American Apparel ’s midlength Ponte (£36; americanapparel.net ) with a gray or black top and a moderate heel.

THE TROUSERS

When it comes to pants, you’ll need a splash of cash to get the best cut. For an elegant silhouette, try Maison Martin Margiela MM6’s high-waisted trousers (£255; matchesfashion.com ). Or, if you’re feeling fashion-forward, go for Phillip Lim ’s skirt-pant combo (£515; net-a-porter.com ). Chic, understated but still unusual, you’d be hard pressed to find anything that works as well for the party season. Pair with a gray cashmere shell top.

THE SHOES

The most refreshing thing about fashion’s new white obsession is the shoes. It probably has something to do with the prevailing “all sneakers all the time” trend, but nonetheless it’s lovely to have something other than black to wear on one’s feet during the dull winter months. In the interest of practicality, though, go for brogues that still have white—but as an accent. Pure white shoes and city streets do not a happy wearer make. Try Marc by Marc Jacobs ’ Clean Sexy black-and-white leather loafers (£280; matchesfashion.com ), or Dr Marten’s Phyllis tassel slip-on brogues (£160; drmartens.com ). Related: Wholesale Shoe Hub Cheap Air Max Shoes

Pinay designer Joyce Pilarsky breaks into Boston Fashion Week

A funny thing happened to Joyce Penas Pilarsky on her first visit to the US in 1982.

Her family was visiting Disney and in their excitement forgot where they parked their car. After several hours of searching, they gave up and went back to their hotel. They returned early morning the next day to find their car parked all alone.


Inspired by the 1950s woman. Kate Woodman Photography
Since then, Joyce has never forgotten the US. It will be one of the fascinating countries she’d visit several times a year as a fashion designer on the lookout for bold ideas shuttling to Germany and the UK before heading home to the Philippines.

This year, Joyce has even more reasons to love America.



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She presented her latest collection at the Emerging Trends segment of the Boston Fashion Week on October 10-11 at the Boston Center for the Arts.

According to the program description, “The ‘Emerging Trends’ runway show has grown into multiple fashion markets like Paris, London, and NYC. Now in its 7th year of production during Boston Fashion Week, we bring to you a distinct roster of 11 international designers and brands that will be showcased in this year’s show. This continues to be an extraordinary platform for emerging fashion designers globally to showcase their talent on an 80ft runway in an industrial fashion forward venue in the presence of sponsors, buyers, press, and industry media.”

Joyce’s collection was inspired by the glamorous women of ‘50s. “These are women who love to wear the very sexy silhouette that shape their bodies, women who have the confidence to show some skin,” said Joyce, describing who would ideally wear her richly beaded and rhinestoned evening wear. Her Boston collection showcased uneven hemlines that showed a lot of legs. There were vintage touches with a modern twist for accent.

“It’s my first time to be invited at the Boston Fashion Week and it’s indeed amazing how they appreciate the creativity we Filipino designers are proud of,” she said.

A lover of nature, Joyce said she gets endless inspiration from the “beautiful trees, the blooming flowers, the humming birds, and the colorful butterflies.”

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In her Joyce Penas Pilarsky Daring Collection, she made extensive use of Filipino fabrics like abel iloco, jusi, silk cocoon, and the pina fiber made from pineapple leaves.

“It’s my way of promoting our country, and at the same time supporting the Filipino weavers here who send their children to school,” she said.

Her style has caught the eye of fashion bloggers. Writes StyleBlazer.com: “The Joyce Pilarsky line of couture fabrics and creations are both elegant and daring, but also are a nod to traditional Filipino garments.”

Fashion Nexus calls Joyce a “true visionary” of design. “Each of her looks… is one-of-a-kind, unique, special, and so much more! There is no way that the stunning floral creations she sent down the runway were forgettable!”

Joyce has been designing gowns and fashion accessories professionally for more than a decade. Before that, this English major from St. Paul College was styling her own dresses and modeling for Gary Flores at the Hyatt Hotel and Silahis Hotel.

“We were the longest running luncheon shows, and am proud of my experiences,” she said. “That’s why even if I didn’t go to fashion school, I am able through my studies and experiences present my fashion around the world.”

Karl Lagerfeld, known for his coats, jackets and theatrically styled gowns, is her favorite designer. “He has lots of energy and creative ideas.” Also because they share the same birthday of September 10.

For her personal style, she is partial to a softly contoured Chanel suit, but loves to be in a body-hugging mini every now and then. “They’re sexy and elegant like my own creations,” she said.Fashion & Style

Venture Investors Get Fashion Fever As Early Stage Deals Soar

There’s a brand new dance in venture capital, as investors have gone fashion-mad.

After watching JustFab and Gilt Groupe explode into billion dollar companies while Warby Parker raised over $100 million to sell stylish eyeglasses, investors are eager to discover the next big hit.

Venture investors have spent nearly $800 million in fashion-related deals so far this year, over half of which are seed stage fundings for young startups.

2014 investment totals are on pace to beat last year’s $900 million, with Q2 of this year seeing a record high of over $300 million in venture deals tracked.

High fashion e-commerce giants like JustFab and Gilt Groupe in the U.S., Zalora in Asia, Russia’s Lamoda and Brazilian Dafiti are all fashion marketplaces that have racked up some of the highest totals for venture investments in the fashion space.

But recently a new generation of vertically-integrated, venture-backed brands have emerged, and investors seem to have no trouble keeping up with the latest trends.

Buck Mason, Frank & Oak, Jack Erwin and Mizzen+Main (which sound more like independent whiskey labels than tech startups) are just a handful of menswear brands that raked in venture dollars last quarter.

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“You’re definitely seeing an explosion of vertically-integrated brands that are covering every vertical, every price point, and every distribution model,” says angel investor Fabrice Grinda, whose latest fashion-related investments include handbag designer Dagne Dover and women’s lingerie brand AdoreMe.

Grinda is not the only one to blur the lines between tech and fashion, investing in companies where the tech aspect is not necessarily at the forefront.

Accel, an early investor in menswear brand Bonobos and arguably the year’s most successful venture firm, tops a list of veteran investors who have been most active in the fashion space.

“This is directly related to a handful of companies – Warby Parker, Everlane, maybe Birchbox – coming of age,” says Lerer Hippeau’s Ben Lerer. “You see these companies that were funded as tech companies but ultimately have become fashion companies, and I think the maturity of this first crop is one of the big drivers behind it.”

After backing Warby early on, Lerer Hippeau Ventures has gone on to become one of the most frequent investors in the space, funding fashion-tech startups from clothing resale marketplace Twice to luxury running apparel brand Tracksmith.

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“There’s a little bit of a playbook now of how to build a brand, online and quickly – you hear the ‘Warby Parker of…’ all the time,” says Lerer, not surprised that investors are taking an interest in fashion. “Now that that formula exists, that sector will get a ton of investment dollars flowing in.”

Not everyone agrees. “Apparel and fashion is a really tough spot in the economy,” says Andy Boszhardt of Great Oaks Venture Capital, “it’s a pretty risky place to be investing right now.”

Boszhardt prefers to invest in e-commerce marketplaces with very little inventory if any, which is reflected in Great Oaks’ most recent deals for Twice and clothing personalization service Bow & Drape.

The economy is only one risk factor – creating a brand ultimately comes down to a matter of taste.

“The conversation always comes back to ‘do we think that the founding team has that really sophisticated sense of brand,'” says Lerer. “And that’s sort of bizarre in a world where the most valuable entrepreneur has always been the technical co-founder.”


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What a difference! Imogen Thomas turns over a new leaf in glamorous high fashion photo shoot

She's known for her raunchy glamour modelling shots.

But Imogen Thomas was worlds apart from her former self in a ladylike photo shoot courtesy of photographer Caron Westbrook, which was shot at Mews House Studio in London.

The Welsh beauty showed off her fashion credentials in a series of elegant dresses and ready-to-wear looks.

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Dressed to impress: Imogen Thomas looks stunning in a series of sexy images taken by Caron Westbrook at Mews House Studio in London earlier this month

She showed off her softer side in the shots, which see her styled to the nines in a glamorous floor-length peach dress with a ruched train, as well as a white tulle backless gown.

• So much for taking a break! TOWIE's Chloe Sims and Elliott Wright head to dinner in Essex......

Imogen also wows in a seriously sexy high-necked black dress, as well as a velvet cape teamed with a leather pencil skirt.

The 31-year-old makes the most of her good genes in several beauty shots, for which she is heavily made up with lashings of bronzer and a bold smoky eye.

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Killer look: Imogen smouldered in a flattering black dress which showed off her incredible figure

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Up close and personal: The star was rocking a heavy smoky eye and a nude lip

Imogen Thomas on juggling motherhood and her new business

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These days the former Big Brother star is rarely seen without her 20-month-old daughter Ariana, who she has with her long-term partner Adam Horsley.

Imogen recently revealed she was planning to expand her family in the near future.

She told new! magazine: 'We’ve had “the talk”. I would love a big family but it’s hard to juggle work, so we’ll just have to see.

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Princess pose: The Welsh beauty worked her angles in a floor-length backless gown with bejewelled straps

'I would love to have twins, but I don’t think that’s going to happen as I don’t have any twins in my family and nor does Adam.’

The brunette has also launched her own online range of baby clothing this autumn, Aribella Boutique, which was inspired by her own daughter.

Speaking to parenting website Mother And Baby, Imogen explained: ‘Ariana always gets comments on how she’s dressed and has actually been the little model [for my collection].'

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Edging it up: Imogen tried out gothic glam in a leather pencil skirt, velvet cape and chain necklaces

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Beauty shot: The 31-year-old reality star showed off her modelling credentials

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Glamorous? This disturbing photoshoot shows why even top models can't say no

Lying slumped on the floor and across tables like rag dolls, their eyes blank, their thin limbs tangled on the floor of a dirty alleyway, the models in this photoshoot - called 'Pretty Wasted' - almost manage to make being unconscious look glamorous.

And it’s no surprise. Because when you need a model to carry off that vacant-stare-while-on-a-cold floor look, you’re going to call in the best.

These top models could make anything look great – including being 'wasted'.

Right?

The frankly disturbing images appear in Interview magazine and were shot by experienced art director and photographer Fabien Baron.

You can almost imagine the conversation that took place between them (and, as a model, I have heard this sort of thing):

‘I know! We’ll bring back heroin chic but take it to the next level: an ironic take on addiction. It'll be so gritty."

In reality, it just doesn’t work. The women in these images look vulnerable, with their legs splayed and clothes hanging off.

And I'm not the only one who thinks so.

Social media users were quick to label the shoot as 'wrong', 'awkward' and 'not ok'.

_{Photo: Twitter}

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_{Photo: Twitter}

_{Photo: Twitter}

I’m reminded of Tom Ford’s shoot for French Vogue in which six-year-old girls were made-up and dressed in mini skirts. It might have seemed edgy when discussing the concept, but the sad reality was that it displayed sexualised young girls.

Sadly, when people are so high up in the echelons of the fashion world, there can be a dearth of people to say ‘no’.

So who’s to blame? And – as a model – I have to question how these women could go along with such a concept.

You see, among those in the pictures are some of the biggest names in fashion. Lily Donaldson and Anja Rubik have graced numerous Vogue covers and campaigns for brands such as DKNY and H&M.

Didn’t they wonder, as the grime was applied to their arms, what sort of pictures they were creating and whether it might be irresponsible? How the public might react?

Of course, making models look ‘wasted’ is nothing new.

Corinne Day’s images of a waifish Kate Moss wearing a skimpy vest top have become synonymous with ‘heroin chic.’

Even I have a few questionable shoots from my early days in fashion. One saw me lying on the floor by a toilet in the foetal position, eyes shut, wearing just a pair of pants and a tiny vest.

The photographer kept every window in the flat open on that freezing February morning, so that I was covered in goose bumps and visibly tense, from shivering, in every shot.

I was 16 at the time, new to the industry and not at all savvy.

But would I say no to that shoot now – or the one in Interview? Especially with such a prestigious magazine and photographer combination on the table? Possibly not.

I simply can’t judge Donaldson and the other models who agreed to appear.

You see, models are commodities. But while we often read about young girls being taken advantage of, or considered to be ‘replaceable’, the truth us that even those models at the top of the industry aren’t immune. You might have your face on every fashion magazine and billboard going. But if you won’t roll around in dirt or pretend to pass out against a drainpipe, you can be replaced.

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You are utterly expendable and not allowed to forget it.

Models at the very top of the industry (with very few exceptions) are subject to the same pressures as the rest of us – every season, a fresh batch of new faces will vie for the limelight. It can be tough to stay relevant in an industry that ever favours extreme youth and newness.

So to be booked by Baron, who works for the biggest global brands in fashion, remains an opportunity not to be turned down.

Whatever you’re asked to do
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Air Max 2015 Cheap Sale

The plus-size bloggers taking on the fashion industry

Two years ago the American fashion blogger Gabi Gregg, 27, posted a picture of herself on her style diary, gabifresh.com, wearing a bikini. The post was written about everywhere, from Teen Vogue to the New York Post. It culminated in an appearance on the American television show Today, in which Gregg was asked to explain her decision to put the picture online. Why? Because she is a size 20, and, along with an increasing number of her fashion-hungry plus-size peers, she has had enough of hiding.

Gabi Gregg , 27, Los Angeles: "Once you stop following the rules about what you aren't supposed to wear, you're free to experiment with different looks."

Her "fatkini" post (as she calls it) led to a contract designing bikinis for the American company Swimsuits For All , and a column for American InStyle. Now she has set up her own plus-size clothing line. Gregg is often cited as an inspiration by her peers, who aim to prove that, when it comes to style, size doesn't matter.

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"I knew it would be empowering for women to see a plus-size girl proudly wearing a two-piece," Gregg says from her home in Los Angeles. While some commenters accused her of being unhealthy - or not fat enough - most responses were positive. "People told me that I'd made them feel it was OK to go to the beach again. Who knew something so simple could be so life-changing?"
Bethany Rutter , 24, London: "I'm interested in what it means to be fat and how extreme and exciting that is." The internet provides a space for plus-size bloggers to represent women they feel are ignored by mainstream media. "If it weren't for 'fatshion' blogging, there'd be no images of fat women looking cool and wearing clothes anywhere," says the Londoner Bethany Rutter , 24, of the blog Arched Eyebrow. She thinks Adele falls into the "safe, pretty fat girl" category and that Lena Dunham is not plus size as she can wear "legitimate designer" or "straight size", as plus-size bloggers often call it. The Californian Amanda Allison, 28, of the blog Fashion, Love & Martinis , says, "The first time I saw a post by a blogger who had my body shape I broke into the happiest tears of my life. I could finally relate to an image of a woman's body in the media." Allison started blogging as an outlet for documenting her struggles with weight. "My early posts were laced with self-hate, but the more plus-size fashion blogs I read, the more I grew to love myself." Her video seriesInside the Dressing Room, in which she shares how clothes fit - or don't fit - her size-24 form, has more than 22,000 subscribers, a fact she puts down to her body positivity.
Amanda Allison , 27, California: "Being big has never stopped me from appreciating the art of fashion and style." A large part of the appeal of these blogs is that they provide a service, scouring stores and websites for clothes that fit and flatter. Few high-street stores or designer brands stock sizes larger than 16, even though that is the average British dress size - but these bloggers rate Simply Be, Asos Curve , River Island and Evans, which last month held its first runway show, featuring collaborations with Giles Deacon and Clements Ribeiro. "If you want to recreate fashion from women's magazines, shopping is really difficult," says Rutter, whose dream is for Topshop to extend its sizing. "People think if you're fat you shouldn't want to look good because you 'clearly' don't care." Scroll through pictures on her and other plus-size blogs, and you quickly see these women reject the old rules, such as avoiding fitted shapes, graphic prints and horizontal lines. "When people read my blog it's often the first time they've considered that they, as a fat woman, could wear trousers or a jumpsuit or clashing patterns," she says.
Tanesha Awasthi, 32, San Francisco: "I started off just posting images of my everyday outfits." But for all the positive feedback, there is also abuse. Allison has been told she is "ugly", "disgusting" and "unhealthy". "One [commenter] told me I should kill myself because I'm fat." What keeps her blogging is her desire to prove the "fat-haters" wrong. More than that, she wants to eliminate the stigma associated with the word fat altogether. The fashion industry is starting to pay attention. Such is their social media power that these bloggers are often signed up as consultants, designers and models. Allison reels off the brands for whom she consults, and Georgina Horne , 26, from London, of the blog Fuller Figure Fuller Bust , was flown to Milan to consult for the Italian brand Marina Rinaldi with other bloggers including Gregg.

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Georgina Horne , 26, London: "Not all of my readers are plus-size." "Social media has given plus-size women a voice we didn't have before," says Marie Denee, 32, of The Curvy Fashionista , who has more than 340,000 Facebook likes. "We've said, 'I love showing off my legs, my curves, my arms and my belly,' and now these options are starting to become available to us." But there is still a long way to go. The second Plus-Size Fashion Weekend was held in London earlier this year, but Nicolette Mason, 27, whose popular blog nicolettemason.com led to a column in American Marie Claire, is worried that the often poor-quality clothes "prevent plus-size fashion being taking seriously". "All too often our culture tells us that the only people allowed to participate in fashion are thin, which is completely untrue," adds Gregg. "Women can look great regardless of their weight, and they deserve to feel great too."
Nicolette Mason , 27, New York: "Plus-size fashion is treated as an afterthought."

Watch Chip Kelly attempt to persuade ref in hilarious fashion

While Birds fans will have to wait another week to see Nick Foles and Chip Kelly's offense race up and down the field due to the bye week, the folks over at NFL Films at least provide us with a little extra glimpse into last Sunday's glorious 27-0 victory over the New York Giants.

Both Kelly and Foles are mic'd up and seem to keep things loose both in the huddle and on the sidelines. Mark Sanchez also plays the roll of backup quarterback slash comedy bro on the sidelines nicely.

But the best moment is clearly towards the end, when the Eagles have the game in hand, and Chip attempts to persuade one of the refs to give him a holding call.

"There's a hold! Throw the hold. You see the hold? Did you see the hold? There was a big hold on that one. It's been a long day though. [pause] I don't really see anything. I just hear guys behind me yelling," Kelly said.

Culture wins football.

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Best 2014 Kids Halloween Costumes: Frozen & More

Halloween will be here before we know it! Going to the store and shopping for a costume is super fun, but it may be a good plan to have a few ideas before entering an overwhelming costume shop! Check out our list of the top 5 best kids halloween costumes for 2014!
Princesses, super heroes and even sharks — this years most sought after kids halloween costumes are eclectic to say the least! You may not even know where to begin when it comes to picking a costume, but don’t worry, we have rounded up a list of the top 5 kids costumes of 2014 to make your life easier! Which one will you chose?


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Frozen: Elsa, Anna, Olaf — You didn’t think we would actually have a list of best costumes for 2014 and not include our favorite Frozen costumes, did you?! If you are planning on snatching up one of these costumes for this Halloween, you may want to act fast, as most stores are already sold out! Yikes! You can always get creative and stand out by putting together your own unique Frozen get-up — just search for ideas on Pintrest!

Guardians of the Galaxy: Rocket Raccoon- According to Party City, “He’s an expert marksman, master tactician… and a raccoon!” Kids and their parents both enjoyed the summer Marvel hit, and what better way to show your love for the film than to become a part of it for one night!

Captain America – Talk about Marvel, this has been one heck of a year for the superhero comic company. One of their biggest superhero’s, Captain America, is one of this years most sought out Halloween costumes! Don’t forget your signature shield!

Sleeping Beauty: Aurora – One of the hottest adult costumes of 2014 is Maleficent! For the younger costume-goers, Aurora is the perfect pick! “Our Aurora Costume turns any little girl into Sleeping Beauty, no hundred-year beauty sleep necessary,” explained Party City. Show off your royal side and strut your stuff in pretty pink gown and tiara!

Shark for Sharknado – If you want some points for creativity, opt for any shark type outfit to pay tribute to this years most talked about film, Shaknado! Costume stores do sell shark costumes, however, to receive full points, you should create this costume yourself! It’s fun and easy! One mom channeled her creative juices and she “made it out of a tomato cage some spider webbing and alot of rubber sharks!”

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Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Nicki Minaj & More: Braless Babes Bare All

In honor of ‘No Bra’ day, we’re celebrating by checking out the bold stars who love to go braless. Who totally pulls off the look?
Oct. 13, is National No Bra day! In honor of the holiday, HollywoodLife.com has rounded up the best looks from some of the hottest stars including Kim Kardshian, 33, and Rita Ora, 23, rocking the braless trend!

Kim is the queen of going braless and wearing extreme cutouts! On Oct. 11, the gorgeous Keeping Up With The Kardashians star stepped out with hubby, Kanye West, 37, rocking a beautiful charcoal pencil skirt paired with a skintight gray top where you could completely see her nipples!

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On Oct. 9, North West‘s mom stepped out in another daring and revealing look while attending the Charlotte Tilbury makeup launch at The Grove in LA. Kim rocked a backless black dress with cutouts in the front which put her ample cleavage on display while keeping the focus on the intricate neckline.

Rihanna definitely gives Kim a run for her money! The fashion-forward singer always looks fabulous, but has definitely stepped out on more than a few occasions sans bra. The gorgeous singer stepped out on Aug. 10, 2014, rocking a beautiful and elegant evening gown paired with sneakers — a look only RiRi could possibly get away with! She rocked the plunging gold Nasty Gal slip dress without a bra and even included a stunning slit.

Rita is never one to shy away from taking a fashion risk. On Sept. 14, the singer left her bra at home and donned a super sexy black pantsuit at Stella McCartney‘s London fashion week show. We love how she kept her look simple, but definitely showed off the right amount of cleavage to make it a memorable look!

Nicki Minaj is known for her famous behind, but that doesn’t mean that the “Anaconda” singer doesn’t show off her other assets now and again! On Sept. 4, the beauty stepped out in a red sheer shirt that she showed off ample cleavage paired with a leather vest.

Supermodels have been rocking the trend too! Chrissy Teigen almost had a major wardrobe malfunction when she stepped out without her bra on July, 30. The stunner rocked an oversized dress shirt with just one too many of the buttons undone complete with knee high nude boots!

Even Hollywood’s young stars are getting in on the trend. Nicola Petlz always looks tasteful and classy. While promoting her film, Transformers: Age Of Extinction the 19-year-old had to leave her bra behind when she wore a stunning light blue Prada gown on June. 19, that was complete with a stunning cutout in the front of the dress. It perfectly showed off her sense of style and her amazing figure!

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Plastic Fantastic: Kate Moss and Co. Turn Out for the Opening of Melissa Shoes’ London Shop

"I am not really a creative director,” Melissa shoes’ Edson Matsuo said last night, as Kate Moss glided by, making a beeline for Gareth Pugh. “I like to think of myself as more of a creative activist. My job is to connect people through a free flow of ideas, and I am trying to do that with shoes.” Given the wild turnout at the launch of Galeria Melissa in Covent Garden (the Brazilian shoe giant’s third flagship after São Paulo and New York), it looks like Matsuo may be on to something. Top models, footballers, boy bands, cross-dressers, reality-show stars, and assorted groupies crowded into the new store.

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“We want to engage people and are always thinking of ways how,” Matsuo continued. “So we came up with an idea of a nine-shoe collection in different colors and sizes, where you can mix and match them all up to 81 combinations. We even sell the shoe individually because a lot of people, especially in Brazil, can’t afford two shoes, so they buy one and mix and match them with their friends. It turns into sort of a game, like, I guess, trading baseball cards. We love that kind of interaction.” Matsuo’s ideas don’t end there: “We’ve also created what we think is the first ‘uni-shoe.’ No right and no left, you can wear each on whichever foot you like. It makes getting dressed easier in the morning.”

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While Matsuo was talking business, Jamie Hince was on the decks and his wife, Kate Moss; Georgia May Jagger; Jaime Winstone; Judy Blame; and Richard Mortimer (who advised us to check out East London’s “Sink the Pink” club night) were going mental on the dance floor. But back to shoes: How has this little brand from Brazil managed to sell millions of candy-color scented plastic shoes—and how exactly has it attracted the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Zaha Hadid, and Vivienne Westwood as collaborators? Says brand director Paulo Pedó: “Plastic is one of the coolest substances to work with—much more so than leather. For a designer, it’s a dream and a challenge to work with something like that. And we discovered over the years that designers do like to take on a good challenge.”

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How I get ready: Suranne Jones

'I need to plan my outfit a couple of weeks before, with a back-up ready to go, too. I’m not a “throw-on” type of girl.' Photograph: Can Nguyen/Rex

Because I am so busy, there are times when I just don't feel like a woman. I don't have time to shave the bits I need to and oil the bits I like, so I just need to pay myself some attention to get in the mood for a night out. I do a lot of prep the night before, such as painting my nails, body brushing and a bit of fake tan on my legs (until the weather makes trousers necessary, and then we don't talk about what goes on under there until next summer). So I can get ready in 45 minutes, which isn't too bad. If it is a Bafta-type event or a wedding, I would take a bit longer. Then I need to plan my outfit a couple of weeks before, with a back-up ready to go, too. I'm not a "throw-on" type of girl.

I can't have anyone near me. Other people's opinions confuse me. If my partner wants to sit and talk, I banish him. I need to concentrate. There's no one saying, "Well, perhaps you can wear a gilet", and then me panicking, "I don't own a gilet!"

You need to be confident to enjoy yourself on a night out. Remember that everybody isn't looking at you and what you're wearing. Even if you have a big hole in your tights, people are more interested in the conversation or themselves. I am still quite self-conscious at work events, though, where everyone actually is looking at what you're wearing and taking your picture. It can be a bit daunting, but I remind myself that it's all part of the job.

I love dressing up and going out for dinner, but there is that brilliant moment halfway through a night out when I think about coming home, taking it all off and putting on my slippers.

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Blake Lively Looks Adorable With Huge Baby Bump During Baby Shower

Wow, Blake Lively must be pretty far along in her pregnancy! Not only is her baby bump huge, but she has already celebrated her baby shower. Click inside for NEW PICS!
Blake Lively, 27, may have provided the world with the cutest baby announcement ever. Now, the excited actress is sharing even more photos of her gorgeous pregnant figure, as well as sharing her excitement over preparing for her first child with husband Ryan Reynolds, 37.


Not only is she the cutest pregnant woman since Kourtney Kardashian, but the casual way she announced that she was expecting, along with quietly sharing new photos of her growing bump, are just too sweet for words.

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“With a new baby on the way there is so much to do! But before experiencing the joy of 3am screams, seemingly impossible amounts of poop and having a favorite shirt covered in reflux…,” the actress wrote in a blog titled “Bringing Up Baby” on her lifestyle website, Preserve.us.

She continued,” There are presents to open, onesies to dye, there is cake to serve, advice to be shared and all around celebration to be had.”

The new photos of Blake reveal an intimate look at her baby shower, which was outdoors with tons of delicious desserts including a 3-tier cake for the mama-to-be!

Blake also revealed that the month of October, features on her website will be “sprinkled” with exciting projects and blog posts dedicated to women who are with child.

Hopefully that means we can expect more adorable photos of Blake as she rounds out her final few months of pregnancy!

Congrats again to Blake and Ryan, as this will be their first child together!

Tell us, HollywoodLifers — What do YOU think of Blake’s outdoor baby shower? Are you impressed at her tiny figure while pregnant? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below!

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Rag & Bone's "Cece" Funnelneck Sweater

Another season, another winning Rag & Bone sweater at ELLE.com. Last spring, we were all about the preppy-cool, deep v-neck "Talia" sweater that promptly went viral among the fashion set. But now that the temperatures are dropping, we'd like our neckline to do exactly the opposite—which is why the brand's soft, chunky turtleneck is everything we're wanting this fall.

"I have a sweater problem," admits Leah Chernikoff. "I wish it were fall and winter all the time so I could wear only sweaters. So even though it's not quite cold enough for them, I'm already craving new ones. This one checks all the 'awesome sweater' boxes: Cozy? Check. Bulky but not too bulky? Check. Funnel turtleneck you can hide behind? CHECK."

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And while Leah may have been the first among us to take the plunge, in true ELLE.com fashion, it's already clear she won't be the last. "When she walked into the office wearing this guy, I knew I wanted it for myself," says senior news editor Sally Holmes. "The funnel neck is so cozy and comfy looking, without being sloppy."

"I tried it on a few weeks ago and fell in love with its cozy cut and so soft material, but ultimately decided to use the rest of my fall shopping budget on a fancy pair of boots," says editorial assistant Victoria Hoff. "But when I saw Leah actually wearing it, I realized just how badly I wanted it. Call it non-buyer's remorse. I guess I'll be dipping into my winter budget now..."

But when it's the sweater, isn't that money well spent? Beauty editor Megan Cahn considers it a worthy investment. "The first clothing item I ever splurged on was a cashmere chunky knit turtleneck," she recalls. "I loved it, but it somehow disappeared over the years, and now I have finally found a worthy replacement. The open knit details make it stand out in the sea of sweaters on the market for fall." As does the fit: "I've shied away from the oversized sweater trend, mainly because what's cute and chunky on some people can end up looking and feeling far too bulky on me," admits social media editor Kate Winick. "But when I saw this on Leah, I was sold because of the length—there's no chance of getting lost in it when it's cute and cropped like this one."

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Meet Philosophy's New Romantic

BEFORE yesterday, Lorenzo Serafini was not a name that many were familiar with, but that changed for good along with the announcement that he is to take the helm at Philosophy. But, as the designer told us this morning, he will be keeping his head down to begin with.


"My to-do list starts with defining my vision of the new Philosophy and as I have just arrived here, I am already two months behind so I need to do this very quickly!" he said.  Formerly lead womenswear designer at Roberto Cavalli, D&G and Dolce & Gabbana, Serafini is, however, experienced in managing the direction of a ready-to-wear label and he already has a strong idea of his Philosophy woman.

"For me, Philosophy is a beautiful word with many different, inspiring, and positive meanings. I envisage a woman who encompasses both innocence and sensuality," he revealed. "Lately I have been obsessed with Brooke Shields in Endless Love by Franco Zeffirelli and also Isabella Rossellini in Wild at Heart by David Lynch. This is what I have in mind for Philosophy, Italian sexiness with an innocent side."

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His vision is fitting for the brand that was established by Alberta Ferretti, herself the queen of ethereal femininity, and one that seems to suit Serafini's own temperament.

"I'm a romantic, shy person," he told us. "I've always worked for fashion houses where the emphasis has been on women's sensuality, and this has always fascinated me."

Serafini replaces Natalie Ratabesi (the first designer to head up the fashion house since Ferretti) who departed the label in June this year after 18 months. He is slated to show his first collection for the brand next February at the autumn/winter 2015 show.

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Being Weird, Lonely, Freaky Ladies All Together

Caitlin Moran, persuasive fountain of feministic encouragement, spoke to Alexandria Symonds at Interview about the big payoff she got after confessing all of the weird things that make up a life. The payoff is that you discover everyone is weird. In her words:

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There's so many girls like us, that's the thing. I've spent all my life thinking that I'm weird, and I must be the only one who's kind of bleeding and wanking, with [gestures to her hair] hair, and have dreams of being noble and not just suffering. When I didHow to Be a Woman, it felt like kind of a risk to be like, "Well, these are the things I do." But when that book came out, everyone was like, "But no, I'm like that too!" You suddenly realize that rather than being a single, weird, lonely, freaky lady, that there's millions of us—there's a nation of girls like us, and it's a beautiful thing to connect.... 

You think you're going to be open to ridicule if you start talking about your periods, masturbation, your abortion, your secret love affair, your eating disorder, or your love of ABBA or of Crowded House. It goes back to what we started talking about, where everyone goes, "Well, that's not a secret at all. I love that, too!" The big secret is that there doesn't need to be any secrets. If you tell your secrets, there will always be at least one person who'll go, "Oh, thank God you said it! We can all be truthful now as well."

Everyone divulge one weird thing every day until there are no weird things and everyone can stroll about footloose and secret-free and fancy-free. More on this plan and other notes (like good birds to model makeup after) in the whole, wonderful interview here.

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