Oscar Wilde wrote that "fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months." For men, that mindset has generally been their M.O.
However, that tide has slowly turned the past few years.
"This movement - men taking interest in their clothes - goes beyond fashion," says Rebecca Robinson, assistant professor of fashion at the Columbus College of Art and Design.
And it is an eye to the past that is inciting this revolution.
Our culture has an affinity for reminiscence, and with good reason. According to studies from the University of Southampton, nostalgia has been shown to offset seclusion and anxiety. It raises tolerance levels and combats boredom.
If boredom is an issue that men have battled in their wardrobe choices, it would stand to reason that turning back the clock could be the solution.
"Current fashion aren't trendy guises. They're more classical looks that you envision your grandfather wearing," says Anthony Graziani, owner of Article, a menswear shop in Over-the-Rhine.
To give visual context, the materials that are at the forefront of this movement include collar sweaters, gray suits, unembellished jeans and khakis, wool jackets, casual sport coats and leather shoes. Modesty is inherent to this look.
"Retro fashion has those elements of simple, clean designs," Patrick Van Oflen, a consumer of men's fashion who lives in Oakley. "People feel they want to go back to a time when products were made better, and life was a lot simpler."
Rather than a consensus, uniform look, gathering vintage-inspired materials have given men more choice in their wardrobe.
"Over the past five to 10 years, men's clothing has evolved into more of a trendsetter role," says Injoo Kim, associate professor at the University of Cincinnati's fashion design program. "Vintage fashion influences more creative designs."
Another factor is the hipster theme moving from the counterculture to the mainstream.
This generation has impressed a more natural look. In short, grooming has been put aside. Instead of flashy or preppy materials, fashion has more of a salt of the earth feel.
"The hipsters wanted their own look, and have responded with a demand for vintage denim looks and have abandoned their razors," Robinson says.
Their ensembles are tried and true, having stood the test of time. As a result, men know they can get mileage out of their purchases.
This is on the opposite end of the spectrum from women's fashion, which thrives on season-to-season apparel.
"Men don't shop that way," Graziani notes. "They want to buy something of quality that will last awhile."
"The only real difference between the throwback pieces and the originals is today's clothes are more tailored," notes Cale Darrell, Article's store manager. Adds UC's Kim, "New styles are more clean and simplified in design from the original garments. They are pared-down version of the original pieces that can be worn with other modern garments and accessories."
Even in casual, modern wear, nostalgia has become omnipresent, evidenced in companies such as Cincy Shirts and Homage.
"There is a sentimental element to all of this in which we have a generation that is yearning for an era they never lived in and use vintage products to replicate elements of that time," said Robinson.
Draper brings back dapper back from America's past
In many societies - including America - the lower classes try to emulate the styles of wealthy, in hopes of raising their own social rank.
Today, that often means imitating figures on television and film.
"The fashion you see on TV and movies is super on-point, and men are drawn to that," Graziani says.
And perhaps no influencer has had a bigger impact than Mad Men.
The show, which debuted on AMC in 2007, highlights the escapades of Jon Hamm's Don Draper, a creative director in 1960s Madison Avenue. The protagonist boasts a gravitating, debonair swagger. Women want him, and men want to be him.
The latter manifested itself in modern males copying Hamm's dapper presentation.
"I worked at Nordstrom when Mad Men started," says Article manager Darrell. "You had all these guys who wanted that Don Draper look. It's very monochromatic. The tie bar was almost reinvented after that show, pocket squares came back in fashion."
It reached such a fever pitch that clothing retailer Banana Republic launched a "Mad Men" themed campaign in 2011.
"Mad Men and different entertainment outlets have a role in dictating fashion," Graziani remarks. "It gives a look for men to strive towards."
What's old is new
It's not just current fashion that has tapped into this retro revival. Vintage stores that market original pieces from the '50s, '60s and '70s have played a major part.
"Given that vintage clothes are ... no longer being manufactured as such, shoppers are looking to wear something no one else will be wearing," says Emily Buddendeck, owner of Nvision, a Northside store featuring vintage art, furniture and clothing.
There's a level of authenticity in these offerings. Whereas today's clothes have retro themes, they lack the originality of the archetypes.
"Vintage resale stores provide inspiration for new designs in the industry," Kim says. "They also provide garments and props for styling photo shoots, as well as nostalgic clothing and accessories, often at a good value."
Stu Nizny of Pixel 19 Vintage in Fairview goes a step further.
"I think the retro styles influence current beliefs," Nizny says, including how people view themselves in society and what they are drawn to.
Not that it's necessarily smooth sailing for the vintage resale market.
For example, many of the old textiles and materials are tough on the skin.
"The modern man does not tolerate the itchiness of a wool tweed or flannel suit," Robinson says. "They expect comfortable clothing that looks good with little care."
But both Buddendeck and Nizny believe the vintage market is here to stay.
"The clothing being made today is not likely to last long enough to become vintage because of its poor construction," Buddendeck adds. "This means that older garments will become more and more rare."
Advertisment
China Nike Outlet Store Cheap Jordans from China Wholesale Air Max 2015 AAA Replica Air Jordan Cheap Air Jordan XX9
Advertisment
China Nike Outlet Store Cheap Jordans from China Wholesale Air Max 2015 AAA Replica Air Jordan Cheap Air Jordan XX9
Social media as a time capsule
Because men have generally disregarded the finer details of style, Internet exploration has facilitated discovery of clothing from the past.
"As the product knowledge grows, so does the consumer's curiosity," Darrell says.
Historically, for those that didn't live in the fashion meccas of New York or Los Angeles, only a handful of publications were available to inform or educate one on male fashion. New media has opened a door to a world that many didn't know existed.
"We have been copying styles for modern clothing since the late 1700s, but we have never had social media to spread a historical recurrence of fashion," Robinson says.
"The e-commerce boom has allowed menswear brands to operate in a way that's much more accessible to the general male shopper," says Nate Ellis, director of marketing for Homage.
Pinterest has been cited by many in the industry as a teaching device. The site not only highlights what's trending in the fashion world, but it gives users an idea behind the concepts and history of the pieces.
"It's nice to know the story of what you're wearing," Van Oflen says.
The Future of Retro
Men have more fashion choices than ever before. But it's the esthetic of yesteryear that powers the field.
"A man can take control of their style, and not feel like their buddies are going to make fun of him," Graziani says. "Knowing these fashions worked once upon a time is a component of that."
"I think the interest and fascination with vintage and retro will continue to grow in popularity," Nizny remarks.
Ellis warns that the current landscape is not free from future alteration or ridicule.
"Over time certain elements have survived being trendy and become new standards for what we wear," Ellis says. "But in many ways, whatever we're wearing at any point is the standard for that moment."
Yet, as Graziani points out, thanks to its historic roots, it's hard to call this look a trend.
"This fashion has been around forever, and it's not going anywhere."
No comments:
Post a Comment